What a tech pack is
A tech pack, short for technical package, is the written and drawn specification for one style. It tells the pattern maker, fabric buyer, sewing line and inspector what to make, from which materials, to what measurements and how to pack it, and it is what both sides check a sample or shipment against.
Keep one file per style, with a style number and a dated version, and record every change in it. At GoodBiz, your tech pack becomes the spec our partner garment factories in India work to and the reference for our quality checks.
What a complete tech pack includes
| Section | What to give |
|---|---|
| Cover page | Style number, season, version, date and size range |
| Flat sketches | Front and back drawings with seams and details called out |
| Construction details | Seam and stitch types (for example 301 lockstitch, 406 coverstitch, 504 overlock, 516 safety stitch), stitch density and seam allowances |
| Bill of materials (BOM) | Every fabric, trim and label with reference, composition, size, colour, placement and quantity per garment |
| Fabric | Composition, construction, yarn count, GSM and tolerance, width and finish |
| Measurement chart | Points of measure, how to measure each one, and tolerances |
| Grading | Measurements for every size |
| Colours | Pantone TCX references or physical standards per colourway |
| Prints and embroidery | Vector artwork, technique, size and placement |
| Labels | Main, size, care and fibre labels, with positions |
| Packing | Fold, polybag, hangtag, size ratio per carton and carton marks |
| Quantities | Units per size and colour, destination port and Incoterm |
| Testing | Shrinkage, colour fastness and any restricted substances list |
Stitch numbers follow ISO 4915, so "514 overlock" means the same thing to every factory. For fabric weight, see the GSM guide.
File formats
- Tech pack: one PDF per style, with version and date in the file name.
- Measurements and quantities: also as XLSX or CSV, so nothing is retyped.
- Artwork and labels: vector files (AI, SVG, EPS or PDF) with fonts outlined.
- Patterns, if you have them: DXF in AAMA or ASTM format, base size noted.
- Photos: JPG or PNG, named by the detail shown.
Points of measure and tolerances
A point of measure (POM) is a defined measurement with a code, a note on exactly where to measure, a target per size and a tolerance. The note matters: chest measured 2.5 cm below the armhole differs from chest at the armhole. Common practice is about plus or minus 1 cm on body measurements and 0.5 cm or less on small details, but set a tolerance for every POM.
Example for a men's regular fit T shirt, size M. The numbers are illustrative, not a size standard.
| Code | Point of measure | How to measure | M (cm) | Tolerance (cm) |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| A | Body length | High point shoulder (HPS) to hem | 72 | ±1.0 |
| B | Chest width | Side to side, 2.5 cm below armhole | 54 | ±1.0 |
| C | Shoulder width | Shoulder point to shoulder point | 46 | ±1.0 |
| D | Sleeve length | Shoulder point to sleeve hem | 21 | ±0.5 |
| E | Sleeve opening | Edge to edge at hem, flat | 18 | ±0.5 |
| F | Armhole | Shoulder point to underarm, straight | 23 | ±0.5 |
| G | Neck width | Seam to seam at HPS | 18 | ±0.5 |
| H | Front neck drop | HPS line to centre front neck seam | 9 | ±0.5 |
| I | Neck rib height | Seam to edge | 2 | ±0.2 |
Grading across sizes
Grading sets how each measurement changes between sizes. Each POM gets a grade rule, the amount added or removed per size. Grade rules are a design choice, not a standard, so take them from your size chart or a garment that fits your customers.
| POM | S | M (base) | L | XL | Grade per size |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Chest width | 52 | 54 | 56 | 58 | 2.0 |
| Body length | 70 | 72 | 74 | 76 | 2.0 |
| Sleeve length | 20 | 21 | 22 | 23 | 1.0 |
Illustrative, in cm. Common practice is even steps through the core sizes and larger steps at bigger sizes if needed. Kidswear is graded by age or height, and children's clothing in some markets has extra safety rules, as our USA page explains. Check grading on a size set before bulk.
Colour standards and lab dips
Give each colour a reference both sides can hold. The most widely used is the Pantone Fashion, Home + Interiors system, whose TCX references (for example 19-4052 TCX) are dyed on cotton and so suit fabric better than paper or screen colours. A swatch of your own fabric also works if you keep a piece; a photo on screen does not.
- Lab dips: the dye house dyes small swatches of the actual fabric, often two or three options.
- Approval: you approve one in writing, judged in a light booth under an agreed light, commonly D65 daylight, and checked under a second light, such as store lighting, to catch metamerism (colours that match in one light but not another).
- Bulk: bulk fabric is checked against the approved dip, sometimes with a spectrophotometer tolerance.
- Prints: approve a strike off on the real fabric before bulk.
One TCX reference looks different on polyester and on cotton, so approve each fabric separately.
Labels for your market
Label rules follow the market where the garments are sold. Most ask for fibre composition, care instructions, country of origin ("Made in India") and the identity of the responsible company.
- USA: fibre content, origin and the manufacturer or dealer identity, often an RN, under the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act, and care instructions under the FTC Care Labeling Rule. See exporting to the USA.
- UK: fibre composition under the Textile Products (Labelling and Fibre Composition) Regulations 2012; retailers expect care symbols, though they are not legally required. See exporting to the UK.
- European Union: fibre names and composition under Regulation (EU) No 1007/2011, in the language of each member state of sale. See exporting to Europe.
Other destinations are on export markets. Give label artwork, text per market and sewing position; your importer confirms the wording.
Sample stages and what each one checks
Not every order needs every stage; a repeat style may go straight to a pre-production sample.
| Stage | Made from | What it checks |
|---|---|---|
| Proto sample | Available or similar fabric | Design, construction and first pattern |
| Fit sample | Fabric close to bulk, base size | Fit on a model or form, and measurements against the POM chart |
| Size set | Each size, or smallest, base and largest | Grading across the range |
| Pre-production (PP) sample | Bulk fabric, trims, labels and colours | Everything as it will be in bulk; once signed, it is the reference for production and inspection |
| Top of production (TOP) sample | Pieces from the first bulk output | That bulk matches the PP sample before most of the order is sewn |
Bulk production starts only after written approval of the sample. Comment against POM codes, in one message per round.
Common mistakes that cause costing errors
- Fabric described loosely. "Cotton jersey" can be costed many ways; give composition, yarn, construction and GSM.
- No quantities by colour and size. Each colour is dyed separately, so the run per colour changes the cost.
- Print details missing. Colours, size, technique and number of placements all change the price.
- Trims and labels left out. Custom buttons, branded zips and woven labels cost more than stock items and take longer.
- Washes or testing not stated. An enzyme wash, garment dye or laboratory test adds cost and time.
- No destination or Incoterm. Delivery cannot be priced. See how to import garments from India.
- Several versions in circulation. Send one dated version and mark the changes.
If you do not have a tech pack
You can still start. Send:
- a reference garment, or clear photos of the front, back and details
- the changes you want to fabric, GSM, colour, fit or trims
- your size range and quantities per size and colour
- logo and label artwork as vector files
- colour references, such as Pantone TCX numbers or a swatch
- the destination market and port
We measure the garment, prepare a spec sheet with points of measure, materials and construction, and send it back for your written approval before cutting the sample. That spec sheet then works as your tech pack for repeats. You can also start from a style in our products.
What happens after you send it
- We review the tech pack and send any questions in one message, replying within 24 hours, Monday to Saturday.
- We send a costing and a sample timeline.
- The sample is made through our partner garment factories. You receive photos and measurements against your POM chart, then the physical sample.
- You approve or comment, with further rounds if needed, up to the pre-production sample.
- Bulk production starts only after your written approval. We check quality against the approved sample, label and pack to your instructions, and ship with export documents carrying the HSN code for each line.
Sources and official links
- ISO 4915: Textiles, stitch types, classification and terminology
- Pantone Fashion, Home + Interiors cotton swatch card (TCX)
- FTC: Threading Your Way Through the Labeling Requirements Under the Textile and Wool Acts
- Regulation (EU) No 1007/2011 on textile fibre names and labelling
- The Textile Products (Labelling and Fibre Composition) Regulations 2012 (UK)